Do you have a purpose for breeding rabbits? A clear objective of why you are breeding these rabbits is important and will help you make good judgments when selecting a pair to breed. Solving problems can be tricky, so having said purpose can help. Are you breeding for meat production? Improving a herd and/or showing? Or are you trying to increase the vitality and health of your herd? These are all valid goals and purposes. Personally, I believe simply breeding for pet is not helpful and just adds to the overpopulation of pet rabbits. If you are breeding to improve a herd and for show, then you pick two rabbits that best compliment each other and could produce quality animals to meet your goal. Breeding for meat, then I would think you'd want to pick the two best meat quality animals {meaning the two with the most meat on them} to produce offspring with good meat quality. Just a quick note before starting. Part 1: Getting Started A note before hand. Breeding rabbits can be emotional. You never know if the litter will survive, if you'll get all peanuts (for those dwarf breeds), or what the kits will turn out like. Before breeding you should be prepared for this, and also be prepared to care for the litters. You should have some empty cages for weaning.There are also the odd times when the mother can die during birth, so be prepared in case something happens and you see yourself facing death. Be cautious with first time mothers. Most breeder's will breed another doe or two that they know can foster babies because first time mothers often will kill or lose their entire litter, or because they are new won't know how to be a mother and not take care of them. In that case, you need to foster the babies away. I personally always breed at least two doe's together at once, unless I know for a fact that said doe is fine. But even proven dam's can have complications. If the dam die's, then by having another litter at the same time I can foster; if she has more peanuts than singles, I'll foster the singles over and re-breed the doe; if something happens and all but one or two in the litter freezes or die's, I'll foster them and re-breed the doe... There are a lot of pro's to breeding more than one doe at a time. Now on to the more helpful and enjoyable part. First of all, you clearly need a buck (male) and doe (female) rabbit. Now, I do not agree with pet breeding and cross breeding, so preferably they would be purebreds of the same breed... If you are planning on starting breeding rabbits, whether for meat or show, I recommend a trio; one buck and two doe's. Both the buck and doe should be of age to breed and both be in good health and condition prior to breeding. If one shows any sort of sign of Vent Disease or other sexually transmitted disease, then do not breed said rabbit. The same goes to should any have any signs of health illness. Some illnesses are treatable, but the animal should be placed in quarantine and treated, or culled. Always check the bucks for split penises. These rabbits should be culled as that is a genetic thing that can and will be passed on through generations. There's some contemplation over whether a true split penis buck can reproduce, but I think they can, just less likely and it will be passed along; that much is known. Even if you just culled the bucks and kept the doe's, it will still be passed along through the generations. Both should be in good condition. If the doe is just off a litter, but looks to be in good flesh and overall condition then you can re-breed her. Should she be bony or skinny in any way, then I would highly recommend waiting and giving her a break to get back to condition and health before re-breeding. Some doe's can be re-bred after four weeks, others need four plus weeks to recuperate! So use your discretion about condition and if they look ready to breed. Check the vent area on doe's. If they are a deep red-ish colour then that means they are ready to breed! Some will even start lifting just from being petted. Breeding maturity in small rabbits is usually 6 months, however some animals will reach sexual maturity at 5 months. Keep in mind if you breed to young, before the rabbit is ready, it can stunt their growth. For meat rabbits, or six class rabbits it's hard to say. I have gotten a few mixed comments about them. A Californian breeder friend of mine says she has an eight pounds, eight months rule, which ever comes first. If they reach eight pounds then she'll breed them, but if they don't then she'll wait until they turn eight months old. I have been told for Champagne D'Argents to wait until nine and a half pounds, but some breed at six months, others wait until eight months. So my advice here would be ask the breed who you are getting the rabbits from on the age they breed their six class meat rabbits. Keeping in mind that just because they have reached Senior Age (usually that's when they come to full sexual maturity), they should be of proper weight. Also, just because they may be of age, doesn't mean the rabbits are ready. Some may be ready at five or six months, others you may have to wait until ten or twelves months before they'll breed! So just because a doe may not take right at six months, doesn't mean she is sterile. I've had doe's that wouldn't take until they were over a year old! Ready to BreedNow, if the rabbits meet all these things then you are ready to breed. ALWAYS take the buck to the doe's cage. Doe's can get very territorial and if you try to put the buck in the doe's cage, she will most likely attack the buck. Don't be scared or nervous if you notice the two of them running around or sniffing each other. Honestly, I notice that most of my bucks like the challenge of trying to catch the doe first ! ;) But, I don't want them out of breath either, so I usually hold the doe's head. The buck will sniff her, hopefully around the bum area, but it's normal for them to sniff the whole body and head as well. Once he is ready, the buck will mount the doe. Again, don't be scared if the doe tries to mount the buck. The buck will do a fast and vigorous humping motion while holding the doe. Most bucks will grab a hold of the fur with their mouth while they do this. Completely normal, at least with my bucks it is! After the buck 'gets' the doe, he will fall off and grunt. It's quite funny to see, especially the first time. I will let the buck 'get' the doe as many times as he wishes, so ensure that she took. Put the rabbits back in their cages and you're good. I personally redo the process about 12 hours later, and then maybe even a third time in the evening or just in the morning and evening. I always do it twice though. Rabbits are induced ovulaters, despite what some people will say. This means that they do not get periods, nor are there times where they are more receptive than others like in the vast majority of other animals, including humans. Because of this, I will re-breed the pair again later in the day. This gives the doe time to drop her eggs and helps be sure that sperm was able to get to the eggs. Part 2: Unwilling to BreedDo you have a buck or doe that just does not want to breed, or a doe that won't take? Well, here are a few tips on how to get those rabbits to hopefully successfully breed!
*NOTE: If you have a doe that wants to breed, but you have a show coming up then breed the doe and take her bred. The two week marker during the pregnancy is when the doe will be in the best condition. It will help the doe not keep lifting while being judged. Judges can't pose them properly if they spend the whole time lifting to be bred. 1. Try With Others: -If the rabbit is proven then I would try other things listed, but if they are not proven then try with other rabbits. If a doe doesn't seem to be taking, then try with other bucks. If she takes with another buck then that's good for her, but not necessarily good for the buck. Try the buck with other doe's, preferably proven doe's, and if still nothing and you've tried other things listed then he may be sterile. Check for a split penis too. This is assuming that they are at sexual mature. Even if a rabbit is proven, they can dry up. Especially if too much time has lapsed between breeding's. 2. Switch Cages: -Put the buck in the doe's cage and the doe in the bucks cage for a few days and then try breeding. This gets them stimulated due to the smells of the opposite gender. 3. Apple Cider Vinegar: -ACV is beneficial for any rabbit. "It contains a potent combination of vitamins as well as being full of minerals, some are potassium, copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorous and many more. ACV also contains helpful enzymes which provide many health benefits". 1 to 2 tablespoons to a gallon of water. It helps boost fertility and some even believe it to help increase the number of doe's in a litter. Either way, ACV is good on a day to day basis, but can help get an unwilling buck or doe to breed. (http://riseandshinerabbitry.com/2012/01/26/apple-cider-vinegar-for-rabbits/ A good link on ACV for rabbits) 4. LIGHT: -Light is very important. Rabbits should have between twelve to sixteen hours of light a day. Twenty four hour light is not good because rabbits do need to sleep too, but they should have between twelve to sixteen. This will help you herd be more willing, especially during the winter when day light is shorter. 5. Heat: -Goes with light. If it's cold, rabbits won't breed. So winters are hard if you don't have a heater. Bring the rabbits into the house, even just for the day can help. 6. Table Breeding: -Some rabbits don't like to breed in a cage. I have a buck (Wind) that will NOT breed in his cage. He gets very sulky and upset at me when a doe is put in his cage and will sulk in the corner. He needs to be table bred. By table breeding, you can lift the doe's rear end to help. 7. Feed: -Two things for this. For starters, feed plays a part in breeding. If it doesn't have the right amount of protein and ingredients. Secondly if they are getting too much food. I do not free feed my Havana's or Mini Rex. Some of my Mini Rex are pigs and would eat and eat until it was gone and gain a lot of weight. Mini Rex are not easy to get weight off and then get back into flesh condition. The MR get half a cup and the HV get three fourths of a cup. Now, my Champagne D'Argent and any other large breed should be free fed, or at least the right amount of feed. So be cautious about how much feed they are getting. If you notice that the rabbit never finishes his/her food, then cut back on the feed. Leaving feed in front of a rabbit 24/7 has been known to cause sterility. 8. Weight: -If the rabbit is over weight, it is highly unlikely of a doe becoming pregnant due to too much fat around the uterus. It is also possibly that the buck may not have the stamina to breed if he is over weight. A diet may be useful and needed. 9. Leaves/Supplements: -Raspberry leaves or Parsley for 3-4 days before breeding can help. Oats, BOSS, or flax seed can be useful as well for 3-4 days before hand. My rabbits get a conditioner daily that includes these supplements. 10. Take 'Em for a Ride: -I know this sounds weird, but trust me and anyone else who shows; taking rabbits for a ride helps a lot. Most rabbits after being shown will come home and want to be bred! The different smells and being in such close proximity to other rabbits helps a LOT. This can be a good and bad thing! Just around the block or something with other rabbits can help stimulate fertility as well, in both bucks and doe's. 11. Hand Simulations: -This sounds weird, but at shows when a doe is being judged multiple times during the day, or held often can be stimulated and start wanting to breed. It can be annoying while at the show because she may start lifting while being judged. If I have a doe that doesn't want to lift, I will try table breeding them and will tickle/massage her rear to stimulate breeding. 12. Smells: -Try bringing posing up a few rabbits on the same mat and then do the same with the rabbits you are trying to breed. Same as taking them to a show, the smells will help stimulate them. Make sure there are buck and doe smells though. 13. Outdoors: -Letting them have a bit of time to run around outside can help sometimes as well. If after trying all or a good amount of these things and still nothing then the rabbit may be sterile. If the doe isn't a deep red-ish colour in the vent area, then she may not be ready to breed at that moment and I'd suggest a few of these things to help her want to breed. Try with multiple rabbits and if they still won't reproduce than they may be sterile and I'd cull said rabbit (or sell as pets for those that don't cull, but notify buying that they are sterile and do not give pedigree). I hope these tips help and you get nest boxes full of baby bunnies! Check out Parts 3 & 4 and the BONUS part in Breeding Tips
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